Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone     

Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong Professor  Hohai University  Nanjing Engineer  The Investigation  Design Institute  Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province  Hangzhou 《中国海洋工程》1991,(2)

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.  相似文献   

舟山潮间带生态学研究：Ⅱ.数量及其分布   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

蔡如星  郑锋 《海洋学研究》1991,9(3):58-72

舟山潮间带生物种类数量的平面分布与盐度和海岸开敞性有关,垂直分布与潮汐有关;群落数量的水平分布与底质和海岸开敞性有关,垂直分布与潮汐有关。舟山潮间带生物有明显的分带现象,隐蔽的岩岸区分为:滨螺带和藤壶-牡蛎带两个带;开敞性岩岸区分为:滨螺带,藤壶-(虫戚)-藻类带及藻类带3个带。沙滩区分为:沙蟹带和浅蛤-斧蛤带两个带;泥沙滩区分为:盐碱植物-滨螺带和招潮蟹-大眼蟹带;泥滩区分为:蟹守螺-囊螺带和蟹守螺-织纹螺带。  相似文献   

莱州湾地区郯庐断裂带的构造特征及其新生代演化   总被引：22，自引：0，他引：22  

吴时国  余朝华  邹东波  张海英 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》2006,26(6):101-110

郯庐断裂带中段分东西两支从莱州湾进入渤海,在莱州湾地区的构造特征与演化历史一直鲜为人知。通过对横穿研究区的两条地震测线的解释和分析,揭示了该区郯庐断裂带中段在研究区的构造差异,研究表明郯庐断裂带东西两支在该研究区表现出不同的断裂性质,西支断裂表现为正断层,东支断裂表现为走滑断层。郯庐断裂是本研究区的主控断裂,通过对本地区地层形态及其组合、断层的剖面形态和空间展布规律的深入研究,揭示了郯庐断裂带在莱州湾地区新生代以来的构造演化历史:古新世—始新世的伸展阶段、渐新世—中新世早期的挤压和右行走滑阶段、中新世中晚期至今的稳定发展阶段,这几个不同时期的演化阶段主要受太平洋板块运动的方向和速度变化的控制。  相似文献   

渤海三维海洋温度和海流数值预报   总被引：3，自引：2，他引：3  

刘钦政  张建华  刘煜  王旭  李燕  白珊  吴辉碇 《海洋预报》2005,22(Z1):27-34

"十·五"期间,我国开展了三维海洋温度和海流数值预报的业务化研究工作.经过3年的努力,渤海三维海洋温度和海流数值预报系统研制完成,并于2003年10月,开始试预报.本文对该预报系统以及运行情况进行了介绍,并分析了所存在的问题和发展方向.  相似文献   

基于雷达海冰图像互相关的冰漂流场测量   总被引：5，自引：2，他引：5       下载免费PDF全文

孙鹤泉  孙延维  王平让 《海洋学报》2003,25(4):135-141

我国的渤海和黄海北部在每年冬季都出现不同程度的冰情,它直接影响结冰海区的石油平台、船舶以及港口等设施的正常作业,对海冰的观测与预报随着上述海区的开发利用越发显得重要,利用航海雷达连续准确地跟踪海冰漂移运动轨迹,是当今观测、调查、研究冰漂流移动规律的有效方法之一,我国的科研人员利用雷达成像技术对渤海的冰情进行了长期的雷达海冰观测、研究,在由雷达海冰图像对海冰的物理特征的识别、分类以及冰漂流场测量方面取得了一些进展[1-4]。  相似文献   

Late Quaternary Seasonal Sea-Ice History of the Northeastern Japan Sea     

Ken Ikehara 《Journal of Oceanography》2003,59(5):585-593

The Late Quaternary sea-ice history of the northeastern Japan Sea is discussed on the basis of the occurrence of dropstones and ice-rafted debris (IRD) in fine sediment cores. IRD was found in all strata except those from the Holocene and oxygen isotope stage 5.5. The largest expansion of sea ice was recognized at the last glacial maximum (LGM; oxygen isotope stage 2), when the southern margin of seasonal sea ice was probably located in the vicinity of the Matsumae Plateau. The margin might occasionally have expanded further southward to off the Oga Peninsula. Sea ice expanded southward from mid-stage 5 to the LGM in response to global cooling, but with much fluctuation. Sea ice remained during deglaciation until around 10 ka, but after 10 ka it retreated northward rapidly in response to global warming and changes in surface water conditions. Greater fluctuations in IRD were found in core GH95-1208 collected from off Rumoi, Hokkaido, Japan. More IRD was found in sediments from late stage 3, late stage 5, and early stage 6. The fluctuations were not concordant with global climate changes (based on the standard oxygen isotope curve), and may have been controlled by regional climate factors such as the strength of the winter monsoon, which is related in turn to high-latitude atmospheric circulation. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone     

P. Bonneton   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1459-1471

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.  相似文献   

遥感技术在我国海冰研究方面的进展   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

国巧真  陈云浩  李京  格日乐  史晓霞 《海洋预报》2006,23(4):95-103

本文首先对遥感技术在我国海冰研究中的发展情况作了详细地论述,并介绍了几种常用于海冰研究的遥感数据;其次,从海冰厚度识别、海冰运动速度矢量计算、海冰资源量测算以及海冰灾害监测等四个方面,简单论述了遥感技术在海冰研究中的应用。最后,以渤海海冰为例,阐述了遥感技术的具体应用,同时指出了今后的发展方向。  相似文献   

First results from the North Iceland experiment     

C. Riedel  A. Tryggvason  B. Brandsdottír  T. Dahm  R. Stéfansson  M. Hensch  R. Böðvarsson  K. S. Vogfjord  S. Jakobsdottír  T. Eken  R. Herber  J. Holmjarn  M. Schnese  M. Thölen  B. Hofmann  B. Sigurdsson  S. Winter 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2006,27(4):267-281

Between June 2004 and September 2004 a temporary seismic network was installed on the northern insular shelf of Iceland and onshore in north Iceland. The seismic setup aimed at resolving the subsurface structure and, thus, the geodynamical transition from Icelandic crust to typical oceanic crust along Kolbeinsey Ridge. The experiment recorded about 1,000 earthquakes. The region encloses the Tjörnes Fracture Zone containing the Husavik–Flatey strike-slip fault and the extensional seismic Grimsey Lineament. Most of the seismicity occurs in swarms offshore. Preliminary results reveal typical mid-ocean crust north of Grimsey and a heterogeneous structure with major velocity anomalies along the seismic lineaments and north–south trending subsurface features. Complementary bathymetric mapping highlight numerous extrusion features along the Grimsey Lineament and Kolbeinsey Ridge. The seismic dataset promises to deliver new insights into the tectonic framework for earthquakes in an extensional transform zone along the global mid-ocean ridge system.  相似文献   

渤海湾沿岸泥炭沼泽形成机制与时空分布   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

李汉鼎  王升忠 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1995,15(2):11-16

渤海湾沿岸的海陆过渡带，优越的水文地理环境有利于泥炭沼泽的形成与发育。海洋海退导致的海岸线变迁，是控制泥炭沼泽发育时间和空间分布的主导因素。间冰期和冰后期的海面上升期间，自海向陆发育了海侵基底泥炭；中全新世高海面期，在山前扇缘洼地和沟谷有泥炭沼泽发育；晚全新世海面下降期，泥炭沼泽主要发育在沿岸的海湾、泻湖、三角洲汊河间洼地及平原上的河滩、阶地、古河道等地。  相似文献